Feature | The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% | The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 | The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% | The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution | The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Key Ingredients | Niacinamide, Zinc PCA | Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin B5 | L-Ascorbic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid | Glycolic Acid, Amino Acids | Multiple Peptides, Hyaluronic Acid |
Primary Benefits | Oil control, pore reduction, redness reduction | Hydration, skin plumping | Brightening, antioxidant protection, collagen stimulation | Exfoliation, improved skin texture | Anti-aging, hydration |
Texture | Slightly viscous serum, can be tacky | Viscous serum, can be slightly tacky | Gritty suspension | Watery toner | Viscous serum |
Potential Drawbacks | Flushing, breakouts, tackiness | Can feel tacky, may not be effective in very dry environments | Gritty texture, potential irritation, stability concerns | Irritation, sun sensitivity | Peptide efficacy can be subtle, potential irritation |
Price approx. | $6 | $7 | $7 | $10 | $15 |
Best For | Oily, acne-prone skin | All skin types, especially dry or dehydrated skin | Those seeking potent Vitamin C benefits, tolerant of texture | Those seeking exfoliation, not for sensitive skin | Those seeking a general anti-aging serum |
Read more about Is The Ordinary a Scam
Dissecting The Ordinary’s “Too Good To Be True” Promise
Alright, let’s talk skincare. Specifically, let’s talk about The Ordinary, the brand that splashed onto the scene like a cold shower on a Monday morning – waking everyone up and forcing a re-evaluation of what we thought skincare should cost. Their promise? Delivering high concentrations of clinically proven active ingredients at prices that make you double-check the decimal point. We’re talking hyaluronic acid serums cheaper than a fancy coffee, potent Vitamin C formulations for less than a movie ticket, and chemical exfoliants that won’t require taking out a second mortgage. This pricing model, coupled with their stark, science-lab-chic packaging and no-fluff communication, immediately generated buzz. It felt like a disruption, a direct challenge to the established giants of the beauty industry who seemed to be charging a premium not just for efficacy, but for the elaborate packaging, the celebrity endorsements, and the glossy magazine ads.
But whenever something seems too good to be true, the natural human response, honed by years of dealing with infomercials and internet ads promising instant riches, is suspicion. Is this the real deal, or is it just clever marketing hiding something less potent, less stable, or even less pure than it claims? The question “Is The Ordinary a scam?” isn’t just idle chatter. it’s a valid query stemming from a healthy dose of skepticism about a paradigm shift this significant. They stripped away the frills, focused on single, potent ingredients, and told us exactly what we were getting, often naming the product simply by its main active and concentration, like Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% or Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. This felt revolutionary, but also raised flags. Could performance truly match the promise at such a low cost? Let’s pull back the curtain and see what’s really going on.
The Core Hook: High Actives, Low Price Tag
Let’s get down to brass tacks. The fundamental pitch from The Ordinary, the one that grabbed headlines and emptied shelves, was simple: We give you the active ingredient, the thing that actually does the work on your skin, at a high concentration, and we don’t charge you for the fluff. Think about it. You see a serum from a legacy brand touting “Vitamin C.” You check the label, and Vitamin C might be halfway down the list, at an undisclosed or low concentration, buried in a cocktail of emollients, fragrances, and thickeners, and it costs fifty, eighty, maybe even a hundred bucks. The Ordinary comes along and says, “Here’s Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%.” The active is front and center, the concentration is disclosed, and the price is usually under ten dollars. This is the core of their disruption.
This strategy works because they’ve identified that a significant portion of the cost in traditional cosmetics isn’t the active ingredients themselves, which are often commodity chemicals.
It’s the complex formulations, the textures, the scents, the packaging design, the marketing campaigns, the retail markups, and the sheer overhead of large corporations.
The Ordinary, under the Deciem umbrella, essentially said, “Let’s cut 90% of that out.” They offer single-ingredient or minimal-ingredient formulations.
The packaging is clinical, minimalist, and cheap mostly glass bottles with droppers or opaque tubes. They rely heavily on word-of-mouth and digital marketing, bypassing expensive traditional advertising.
Their product names are functional, not aspirational “The Buffet” became Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, telling you exactly what’s inside. This lean model allows them to price aggressively.
According to market analysis, The Ordinary’s average price point is significantly lower than competitors offering similar actives.
For instance, a 30ml niacinamide serum from a competitor might run $30-50, while Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is typically under $6. This isn’t just a small discount.
It’s a seismic shift in pricing expectations for potent skincare.
- Pricing Comparison Illustrative, based on market averages vs. TO:
- Hyaluronic Acid Serum 30ml: Competitor: $30-60 | The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5: ~$7
- Vitamin C Serum L-Ascorbic Acid, High Potency: Competitor: $50-100 | The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%: ~$7
- Glycolic Acid Toner: Competitor: $35-55 | The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution: ~$10
- Niacinamide Serum: Competitor: $30-50 | The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%: ~$6
This table highlights the sheer scale of the price difference. It’s not 10-20% cheaper. it’s often 80-90% cheaper for a product that claims to offer the same active ingredient at a therapeutically relevant concentration. This delta is precisely why the “scam” question arises. People intuitively understand that quality usually costs something. When the cost is this low, the immediate assumption is that corners must be cut somewhere beyond the obvious marketing and packaging. Is the ingredient sourced from a less reputable supplier? Is the formulation unstable? Is the concentration really what it says on the bottle, or is there some loophole? These are valid questions that need unpacking, especially when dealing with powerful actives like acids or high-concentration vitamins that can irritate if not formulated or used correctly. The value proposition is undeniable, but the skepticism is also warranted.
- The Ordinary’s Value Proposition Pillars:
- High Concentration Actives: Focus on proven ingredients at levels shown to be effective in clinical studies.
- Transparent Naming: Products named after their key ingredients and concentrations e.g., Lactic Acid 10% + HA.
- Minimalist Formulations: Stripped-down formulas, often containing only the active, a base, and necessary stabilizers.
- Low Price Point: Aggressive pricing due to cost-cutting in areas like marketing, packaging, and formulation complexity.
- Education Focus: Aim to educate consumers about ingredients, though sometimes the approach is complex.
What “Scam” Could Even Mean Here
Before we get further down the rabbit hole, let’s define what “scam” might actually mean in the context of a skincare brand like The Ordinary. It’s not like they’re selling snake oil with zero active ingredients well, mostly, we’ll get to formulations. A “scam” here wouldn’t be literal theft, but rather a form of deception or significant misrepresentation. What are the potential ways The Ordinary could be considered deceptive, even if unintentionally?
One possibility is misleading claims about efficacy. They might sell Salicylic Acid 2% Solution at a low price, but if the formulation is inherently unstable, has a pH that renders the active ineffective, or uses a poor-quality source, the user might not get the promised results. This wouldn’t be outright fraud there is salicylic acid in there, but it would be selling something that looks like the effective version but functionally isn’t, or isn’t for long. Another angle is promising results that are unrealistic given the typical user’s lack of knowledge or inability to correctly integrate multiple potent actives from their range without causing irritation or damaging their skin barrier. Their model encourages layering and combining products, but doing so incorrectly can lead to poor outcomes, making the products seem ineffective or even harmful, thus leading users to feel “scammed” out of their money and effort.
Furthermore, a “scam” could imply shoddy ingredient quality or sourcing. While they claim high concentrations of actives, are these ingredients sourced sustainably or ethically? Are there hidden impurities? For a brand focused on transparency, the source and quality of raw materials are crucial details that aren’t always fully disclosed beyond the chemical name. A 10% Niacinamide might be technically present in Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, but if it’s a low-grade niacinamide with high levels of nicotinic acid a common byproduct, it could cause significant flushing and irritation, leading users to believe the product is faulty or dangerous, effectively not delivering the intended benefits of niacinamide.
- Potential “Scam” Interpretations:
- Ineffective Formulations: Actives present but rendered ineffective by pH, vehicle, or stability issues.
- Poor Ingredient Quality: Using lower-grade raw materials with potential impurities.
- Unrealistic Expectations: Marketing potent actives without adequately preparing users for potential side effects or the complexity of building a routine.
- Instability: Products degrading quickly after purchase, losing potency before they can be used up.
- Hidden Costs/Effort: The low price tag masks the need for significant user education and trial-and-error, leading to wasted money on unsuitable products.
It’s important to note that proving these points isn’t always straightforward.
Skincare results are highly subjective and depend heavily on individual factors.
What works wonders for one person might do nothing or cause a breakout for another.
So, a user feeling “scammed” because Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution didn’t clear their acne might just be an inappropriate product choice for their skin type, not evidence of a scam.
However, if there are systemic issues with formulation stability or ingredient quality that affect a large percentage of users, or if the marketing strongly implies results that are statistically unlikely for most people without significant guidance, the “scam” narrative gains more traction.
We need to look closely at the details – the formulations, the ingredients, the stability, and the user experience – to determine if the value proposition holds up under scrutiny, or if it’s built on shaky ground.
Behind the Label: Are These Formulations Just Simple, Or Too Simple?
Let’s peel back the label, literally and figuratively, and look at what’s actually in these bottles beyond the splashy active ingredient percentage. The Ordinary’s philosophy hinges on simplicity: deliver the active in a basic, functional base. This is where the cost savings often come in. Complex cosmetic formulations involve not just the active, but a carefully chosen symphony of penetration enhancers, stabilizers, texture modifiers, humectants, emollients, and sometimes even ingredients to counteract potential irritation from the active. These add cost in terms of raw materials, formulation research and development, and manufacturing complexity. By stripping down formulations, The Ordinary cuts these costs.
But here’s the potential catch: skincare isn’t just about dumping a high percentage of an active onto the skin. How that active is delivered, what it’s mixed with, its pH level, and its stability within the formula critically impact its effectiveness and potential for irritation. A simple formula might be cheaper to produce, but does it ensure the active penetrates the skin effectively? Does it keep the active stable over its shelf life? Does it mitigate potential side effects? These are the questions that move us beyond the simple “percentage of active” comparison and into the nuanced world of cosmetic chemistry. Sometimes, a slightly more complex and thus more expensive formulation is necessary to make a powerful active safe, stable, and truly effective. Are The Ordinary’s formulations minimalist masterpieces of efficiency, or are they too simple, sacrificing performance or user comfort for the sake of a low price tag?
The Ingredient Purity Question
When you’re buying raw ingredients in bulk, whether it’s for food, supplements, or cosmetics, quality varies.
A higher purity ingredient often costs more to source and process.
For example, the L-Ascorbic Acid used in Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% can range in purity and particle size, which impacts stability and how gritty the product feels.
Similarly, Niacinamide, the star of Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, can contain varying levels of nicotinic acid.
Nicotinic acid is a vasodilator and causes the “niacin flush” – that hot, red, sometimes itchy sensation.
While some flushing is normal for sensitive individuals even with pure niacinamide, higher levels of nicotinic acid significantly increase the likelihood and severity of this reaction. Lower purity niacinamide costs less.
So, is The Ordinary using medical-grade, ultra-pure versions of these ingredients, or are they opting for slightly lower grades to keep costs down? They don’t explicitly disclose their sourcing or purity standards for every raw material.
While regulations require cosmetic ingredients to meet certain safety standards, there can still be variations in quality that affect performance and user experience, especially irritation levels.
Think of it like coffee beans – both cheap robusta and high-quality arabica are “coffee,” but the taste and price are vastly different.
In skincare, this difference in “taste” could be efficacy, stability, texture, or irritation potential.
- Factors Affecting Ingredient Quality/Purity:
- Manufacturing Process Byproducts e.g., nicotinic acid in niacinamide
- Presence of Heavy Metals or Contaminants
- Particle Size for suspensions like Vitamin C
- Source Origin & Supply Chain Ethics
- Consistency Batch-to-Batch
While The Ordinary is regulated and their products are generally safe, the question of optimal purity for maximum efficacy and minimum irritation at high concentrations remains relevant. A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology though not specifically on The Ordinary highlighted how the grade and formulation vehicle of L-Ascorbic Acid significantly impacted its penetration and antioxidant activity in the skin. Without specific data from The Ordinary on the purity and specific grade of, say, the lactic acid in their Lactic Acid 10% + HA or the salicylic acid in Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, it’s difficult for the consumer to know if they are getting the most effective version of the active. This doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a “scam,” but it does add a layer of uncertainty compared to brands that might invest more in premium, certified-grade raw materials and are transparent about it – a cost often reflected in their higher prices. The user experience with products like the Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, with many reporting flushing or irritation not experienced with other brands’ niacinamide serums, could potentially be linked to variations in niacinamide purity or the final formulation’s pH.
Vehicle Matters: Beyond the Concentration Number
Imagine you have a potent race car engine the active ingredient. Slap it onto a skateboard a poor vehicle/formulation base, and it’s not going to perform optimally, if at all.
Put it in a well-engineered chassis with a finely tuned transmission a sophisticated vehicle, and you’ve got a winner.
In skincare, the “vehicle” is the base formulation the active ingredient is dissolved or suspended in – think serums, creams, lotions, oils, suspensions. The vehicle is not just filler. it’s critical for:
- Solubility and Stability: Some actives need a specific environment e.g., oil vs. water to remain dissolved and stable.
- Penetration: The vehicle helps carry the active ingredient into the skin layers where it needs to work. Ingredients might need to reach the epidermis or even the dermis depending on their function.
- User Experience: The texture, feel, and absorption rate are dictated by the vehicle. A gritty suspension might contain the active, but is it pleasant or easy to use consistently? Looking at you, Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%.
- Mitigating Irritation: The vehicle can include soothing or barrier-supporting ingredients to buffer the potential harshness of a potent active, especially with acids or high-concentration vitamins.
The Ordinary often uses very simple, sometimes almost stark, vehicles.
For example, some of their Vitamin C products are anhydrous water-free suspensions, like the aforementioned Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. While this formulation can help keep L-Ascorbic Acid stable water is a nemesis of L-AA stability, it results in a gritty texture that some users find unpleasant and difficult to apply.
More “elegant” and expensive Vitamin C serums use sophisticated anhydrous bases that feel smooth, or advanced encapsulation technologies, or buffered water-based formulas at specific low pH levels which requires careful formulation expertise to balance stability and efficacy. Similarly, the base for Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is a relatively simple water-based serum with suspending agents.
While functional, some users report it can feel a bit tacky or foamy compared to more complex serum bases used by other brands.
- Vehicle Impact Examples:
- Penetration: A good vehicle ensures the active gets past the stratum corneum barrier. Some formulations include penetration enhancers like certain alcohols or glycols in controlled amounts. Simple vehicles might lack these, potentially reducing efficacy.
- pH: For acids like Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution or Lactic Acid 10% + HA, the pH of the final product is critical for activity. Alpha Hydroxy Acids AHAs are most effective at exfoliating at a pH between 3 and 4.5. If the vehicle doesn’t maintain the pH in this optimal range, the acid might be less effective. The Ordinary does generally formulate its acids within effective pH ranges, but the buffering capacity of the vehicle also matters for skin compatibility.
- Texture & Application: The vehicle affects how the product spreads, absorbs, and layers. A poorly formulated vehicle can make a product difficult to incorporate into a routine, leading to inconsistent use and thus, reduced results.
- Stability: As mentioned, the vehicle directly influences how long the active remains potent. Simple vehicles might not offer robust protection against degradation from light, air, or temperature fluctuations.
The simplicity of The Ordinary’s vehicles is a deliberate choice to keep costs low. This choice is not inherently bad, but it does mean that the user experience might be less luxurious, and in some cases like the gritty Vitamin C suspension, potentially impact compliance or layering with other products. More importantly, for actives that are notoriously unstable or require specific conditions to penetrate like L-Ascorbic Acid, a minimalist vehicle might be a compromise on performance or stability compared to a more complex, albeit more expensive, formulation. It’s not a “scam” in the sense of providing zero active, but it might be a case of the formulation being just functional enough to deliver some benefit, rather than optimized for maximum performance or user comfort.
Stability Issues: When High Numbers Don’t Tell the Whole Story Thinking about things like Vitamin C
Let’s dive into the chemical clockwork that makes or breaks a product, especially when we’re dealing with notoriously fickle ingredients. We’ve got high concentrations of actives – great! But what happens to that concentration a month, three months, six months after you open the bottle? This is where stability comes in, and it’s a major factor often influenced by the formulation vehicle, packaging, and the inherent nature of the active itself. Some actives are like divas – they need everything just so or they throw a fit and degrade, becoming less effective or even potentially irritating. L-Ascorbic Acid, the pure form of Vitamin C, is the prime example of this high-maintenance diva.
L-Ascorbic Acid is brilliant for antioxidant protection, collagen synthesis, and brightening, but it oxidizes very easily when exposed to air, light, or water. When it oxidizes, it turns into dehydroascorbic acid and then further breakdown products, losing its beneficial properties and sometimes turning a tell-tale yellow or orange. This is why stable Vitamin C serums are challenging and expensive to formulate. They require specific pH levels usually low, below 3.5, for L-AA, anhydrous bases water-free, encapsulation, or the use of more stable, but sometimes less potent, Vitamin C derivatives. The Ordinary offers several Vitamin C formulations, including anhydrous ones like Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% and Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone, and some derivatives. While the anhydrous formulas help with L-AA stability, the high concentration 23% or 30% in a suspension can mean not all of it is readily available or penetrates easily, and the texture is often criticized, potentially affecting how often people actually use it.
Beyond Vitamin C, other actives can face stability challenges.
Peptides in the Multi-Peptide + HA Serum need careful formulation to remain active.
AHAs and BHAs like those in Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution and Salicylic Acid 2% Solution are generally more stable, but their effectiveness is tied to maintaining the correct pH, which needs to remain consistent over the product’s life.
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is relatively stable, but the addition of Vitamin B5 Panthenol requires proper preservation to prevent microbial growth in a water-based formula.
- Factors Influencing Product Stability:
- Active Ingredient: Inherent chemical properties e.g., oxidation, hydrolysis.
- Vehicle: Whether it protects the active from degrading factors water, air, light.
- pH Level: Crucial for the activity and stability of many ingredients acids, Vitamin C.
- Packaging: Opaque, airless pumps or tubes offer better protection than clear droppers or jars from light and air exposure.
- Storage Conditions: Temperature fluctuations e.g., storing in a hot bathroom.
- Preservation System: Prevents microbial contamination, which degrades the product.
The Ordinary primarily uses simple dropper bottles, even for potentially unstable ingredients like Vitamin C serums though their anhydrous Vitamin C comes in tubes, which is better. Clear glass dropper bottles expose the product to light and air every time you open them, accelerating oxidation.
This is a cost-saving measure compared to using more protective opaque or airless packaging common with premium unstable active formulations.
While the product might leave the factory floor with the stated concentration of active, its potency could significantly decline long before the printed expiry date, depending on how it’s stored and used.
This means the user might be applying a product that is functionally weaker than when purchased, leading to disappointing results and the feeling that the product simply “doesn’t work.”
Consider the lifecycle of Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. Upon opening, the anhydrous base helps, but repeated exposure to air and light over weeks of use can still lead to degradation.
Users might notice a change in color or increased grittiness which could be due to hydration of the HA spheres, but also potentially crystalizing oxidized L-AA. While not an outright “scam,” if a product’s effective shelf life after opening is significantly shorter than the user expects due to packaging and formulation compromises made for cost, it affects the value delivered.
A product that’s cheap but loses 50% of its potency in two months isn’t as good a deal as it appears on paper.
This requires users to be mindful of storage cool, dark places and potentially buy smaller sizes or use them up quickly.
Ingredient Deep Dive: What Works, What’s Tricky
Alright, let’s get granular. The Ordinary built its fame on highlighting specific, scientifically-backed ingredients. They put names like “Niacinamide,” “Hyaluronic Acid,” “Glycolic Acid,” and “Vitamin C” center stage. This approach empowers consumers by telling them exactly what active they are buying. You’re not just buying a generic “anti-aging serum”. you’re buying Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, which contains specific peptides and hyaluronic acid. This is a fantastic step towards demystifying skincare. However, knowing the name of an ingredient and its percentage is only part of the puzzle. How does it actually work in the bottle? What are the nuances? What are the potential pitfalls, especially when delivered in a simple, low-cost formulation?
This is where we need to move beyond the ingredient list and percentage and understand the delivery and interaction of these actives. A high percentage doesn’t automatically equal high effectiveness or safety. Sometimes, a lower percentage in a better vehicle, or combined with synergistic ingredients, can outperform a high percentage in a basic base. Let’s crack open some of The Ordinary’s most popular and talked-about products and see what’s really going on behind the promise. We’ll look at the science of the active, the specifics of The Ordinary’s formulation, and the practical reality for the user.
Navigating Actives That Need Nuance: The Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% Reality Check
Let’s face it, Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% is perhaps one of The Ordinary’s most famous, and infamous, products.
The promise: a whopping 23% pure L-Ascorbic Acid L-AA, a potent antioxidant, collagen booster, and brightener, combined with Hyaluronic Acid spheres for hydration.
The reality: a gritty, sometimes stinging, white suspension that feels like applying a fine scrub and often leaves a strange residue. Why the disparity?
The science of L-AA is solid. Studies dating back years, like research in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 1999 and Dermatologic Surgery 2005, show that L-AA at concentrations typically above 10% can penetrate the skin and deliver significant benefits. However, how it’s delivered matters. L-AA is notoriously unstable in water. The Ordinary’s solution here is an anhydrous water-free silicone base. This keeps the L-AA powder stable, as water isn’t present to trigger oxidation. The 23% is a very high concentration, exceeding what many experts consider necessary often 10-20% is cited as optimal for significant results. The HA spheres are dehydrated and are intended to draw water into the skin, providing surface hydration, which can also help “dissolve” the gritty L-AA upon application, although user experience suggests this doesn’t fully eliminate the texture issue.
- Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% – The Breakdown:
- Active: 23% L-Ascorbic Acid L-AA – A highly effective but unstable form of Vitamin C.
- Vehicle: Anhydrous silicone base – Good for L-AA stability, poor for texture and potentially absorption rate compared to serums.
- Other Ingredients: Dehydrated Hyaluronic Acid Spheres – Provides some surface hydration.
- Texture: Gritty, powdery, can feel heavy or oily due to the silicone base.
- Potential Issues: Stinging/tingling upon application especially on damp skin, difficulty layering, potential for L-AA crystals not fully dissolving or penetrating effectively due to suspension format, stability concerns over time despite anhydrous base if exposed to air/heat repeatedly.
The gritty texture isn’t just a cosmetic annoyance. it can impact how the product is absorbed and how consistently people use it. If it feels unpleasant, you’re less likely to use it daily, which is key for seeing results with antioxidants and collagen boosters. Furthermore, while the anhydrous base protects from water, L-AA is still susceptible to air and light. The tube packaging is better than a clear dropper, but it’s not an airless pump. Once opened, exposure over time is inevitable. While laboratory tests might confirm 23% L-AA at the point of manufacture, the effective concentration delivered to the skin over the product’s lifespan in a user’s bathroom is questionable.
This isn’t to say the product doesn’t work for anyone. Many users do report seeing brightening effects. However, it requires tolerance for the texture and potential tingling, careful storage, and understanding its limitations compared to more elegantly formulated and expensive Vitamin C serums that might use derivatives, encapsulation, or sophisticated low-pH aqueous bases designed for better penetration and user experience. The Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% is a prime example of how The Ordinary prioritizes delivering the active at a high concentration for a low price, even if it means compromising on vehicle elegance and potentially long-term, real-world stability or optimal delivery compared to competitor products. It’s not a scam in that it contains L-AA, but it’s a nuanced product where the high percentage doesn’t automatically translate to being the “best” or easiest-to-use Vitamin C option.
Acids: Power vs. Potential Pitfalls with Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution and Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
Chemical exfoliants are another cornerstone of The Ordinary’s lineup, with Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution and Salicylic Acid 2% Solution being perennial bestsellers.
Acids work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more effectively.
This can improve texture, tone, clear pores, and reduce breakouts.
Glycolic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid AHA, water-soluble, primarily working on the skin’s surface to exfoliate and improve texture/tone.
Salicylic Acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid BHA, oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate into pores and exfoliate from within, making it particularly effective for acne and blackheads.
Both products deliver the active at clinically relevant concentrations: 7% Glycolic Acid higher end for an unsupervised toner and 2% Salicylic Acid the maximum concentration allowed over-the-counter in many places. Crucially, The Ordinary formulates these with appropriate low pH levels Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution is approximately 3.5-3.7 pH, Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is approximately 3.2-3.5 pH. This low pH is essential for the acids to be in their active, free-acid form, capable of exfoliating.
Formulating acids correctly requires careful pH control. too high, and they’re ineffective.
Too low, and they can be excessively irritating or even cause burns.
The Ordinary generally gets this right, which is commendable for the price point.
- Acid Product Characteristics:
- Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution:
- Active: 7% Glycolic Acid AHA.
- Vehicle: Water-based toner with Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract claimed to reduce irritation and Ginseng Root/Aloe Vera Leaf Water soothing.
- pH: ~3.5-3.7.
- Use Case: Exfoliation, improving texture/tone, mild hyperpigmentation.
- Potential Pitfalls: High concentration can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin or if overused. requires sun protection.
- Salicylic Acid 2% Solution: Note: The original formulation was a simple propanediol base, it has since been reformulated into an Anhydrous Solution and more recently a water-based serum.
- Active: 2% Salicylic Acid BHA.
- Vehicle: Varies Anhydrous or water-based serum.
- pH: ~3.2-3.5 for the water-based serum.
- Use Case: Acne, blackheads, enlarged pores, oily skin.
- Potential Pitfalls: Can be drying and irritating. potential for “purging” initially. requires sun protection.
- Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution:
The primary “pitfall” with these acid products, especially the Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution due to its higher concentration for an AHA toner, isn’t the product formulation itself which is generally sound for the price regarding pH and concentration, but the user’s potential for misuse. Because they are inexpensive and readily available, users unfamiliar with potent acids might overuse them, combine them incorrectly with other actives like retinoids or other acids, or skip sun protection. This can lead to over-exfoliation, barrier damage, redness, sensitivity, and breakouts, making the user think the product is bad or a “scam” when the issue is improper application.
While The Ordinary provides guidance on their website about product usage and conflicts, the ease of access to these potent ingredients means that user education and caution are paramount.
The low price point removes a traditional barrier to entry for potent actives.
A $50 glycolic serum might make someone read the instructions carefully. a $10 one might seem less risky to apply liberally.
The products themselves, like Lactic Acid 10% + HA, Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, and Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, are generally effective if used correctly.
The potential pitfall is the combination of potent actives with novice users, a challenge amplified by the brand’s accessible pricing strategy.
It’s a power tool sold without requiring certification – effective in the right hands, potentially damaging in the wrong ones.
The Hydration Baseline: Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and What to Expect
Not all of The Ordinary’s popular products are high-risk, high-reward actives.
Some are skincare staples, designed to provide fundamental benefits like hydration.
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is arguably one of their safest and most universally recommended products.
Hyaluronic Acid HA is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture from the environment or deeper skin layers into the upper layers of the epidermis, helping the skin feel plump and hydrated.
Vitamin B5 Panthenol is included for its surface hydration and skin-soothing properties.
The concept is simple and well-established. HA can hold a significant amount of water – often cited as up to 1000 times its weight, though the skin’s capacity is more nuanced. The “2%” refers to the concentration of HA. The Ordinary uses multiple molecular weights of HA in their formula, which is standard practice and potentially beneficial, as different sizes might sit on the surface or penetrate to slightly different depths within the epidermis. Smaller fragments might penetrate further, while larger ones primarily form a hydrating film on the surface, reducing transepidermal water loss TEWL.
- Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 – The Rundown:
- Actives: 2% Hyaluronic Acid multiple molecular weights, Vitamin B5 Panthenol.
- Vehicle: Water-based serum.
- Use Case: Surface hydration, smoothing, plumping look of skin, barrier support.
- Texture: Clear, viscous serum. Can sometimes feel slightly tacky, especially if too much is applied or in very dry environments.
- Potential Considerations: Tacking feeling. in very low humidity, humectants can potentially draw moisture out of the skin if no occlusive layer is applied on top. effectiveness largely depends on applying to damp skin and sealing with a moisturizer.
Compared to many of The Ordinary’s other products, Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is relatively low-risk and aligns well with expectations for a basic hydrating serum.
Does it perform miracles? No, it’s a hydrating serum.
Does it deliver hydration effectively for its price point? Generally, yes.
User reviews are broadly positive, citing improved hydration and plumping.
Any negative experiences are usually related to the tacky texture or user error applying to dry skin in dry air without a subsequent moisturizer.
Is there a difference between a $7 HA serum and a $70 HA serum? Often, yes.
The $70 serum might use more complex formulations for a better texture, include peptides or ceramides for added benefits, or utilize advanced delivery systems.
The Ordinary’s version is a straightforward humectant serum.
It provides hydration as promised but doesn’t offer much beyond that baseline function.
For someone just needing basic hydration support, this product is a clear win in terms of value.
For someone expecting transformative skin changes from a hydrator alone, or who dislikes simple, potentially tacky serum textures, it might feel less impressive. But calling it a “scam” would be inaccurate.
It contains the advertised ingredients and delivers on its core promise of hydration.
It exemplifies The Ordinary’s strategy on a simpler product: identify a core function hydration, use well-known ingredients Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, formulate it simply and affordably, and let the user decide if that baseline function is sufficient for their needs.
Decoding Specifics: Putting Popular Products Under the Microscope
Let’s zoom in even further.
The Ordinary has a sprawling catalog, but a few products have achieved near-cult status, becoming entry points for many people into the world of active skincare.
These are the bottles you see lined up on Instagram, the ones constantly discussed on forums and social media.
Why do some users rave about them, while others report zero results or even negative reactions? This is where the rubber meets the road – the specific interactions of these formulations with diverse skin types and concerns.
It’s about moving from the theoretical potential of an ingredient to its practical application in a specific, low-cost bottle.
Are these popular products universally effective, or are they hits for some and misses for others, and if so, why? Let’s dissect a few heavy hitters.
The Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Phenomenon: Why It Works or Doesn’t for Many
Ah, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%. If any single product defines The Ordinary’s accessible active strategy, it’s this one. Niacinamide Vitamin B3 is a versatile powerhouse. Research shows it can:
- Improve skin barrier function by increasing ceramides
- Reduce transepidermal water loss TEWL
- Act as an antioxidant
- Have anti-inflammatory properties useful for redness and acne
- Potentially help regulate oil production
- Improve the appearance of pores
- Fade hyperpigmentation at concentrations typically 5% and above
Zinc PCA is often included in niacinamide serums for its anti-inflammatory and oil-regulating properties, synergistic with niacinamide for acne and oily skin concerns. A 10% concentration of niacinamide is quite high.
Many studies demonstrating significant benefits use concentrations between 2% and 5%. The Ordinary went straight for 10%, presumably to offer maximum perceived potency at a low price.
- Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% – The Deep Dive:
- Actives: 10% Niacinamide, 1% Zinc PCA.
- Vehicle: Water-based serum with various thickeners and suspending agents.
- Use Case: Oily skin, enlarged pores, redness, mild acne, barrier support, hydration.
- Texture: Clear, slightly viscous serum. Can sometimes feel sticky, soapy, or foamy upon rubbing.
- Potential Issues: Niacin flush redness, warmth, itching especially for sensitive skin or those reacting to nicotinic acid impurities. potential to cause breakouts/clogging in a subset of users. tackiness. formulation texture issues.
Here’s where the user experience gets divisive.
For many, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% is a holy grail: affordable, effective at reducing oil, minimizing pores, and calming redness.
Numerous anecdotal reports and online reviews attest to these positive outcomes.
However, a significant minority of users report negative experiences, ranging from the aforementioned flushing to increased breakouts, congestion, or sensitivity.
Why the discrepancy? While some flushing might be due to nicotinic acid levels as discussed earlier, other factors are at play. Some dermatologists and cosmetic chemists hypothesize that 10% niacinamide is simply too high a concentration for many people’s skin, particularly when delivered in a simple water base without significant buffering or soothing ingredients beyond the zinc. A 5% concentration might offer similar benefits with less risk of irritation. For some skin types, the combination of 10% niacinamide and the specific texture agents in the formula might also contribute to congestion or sensitivity. The vehicle, while seemingly simple, uses ingredients like Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum and Xanthan Gum, which might not agree with everyone’s skin microbiome or can feel heavy or sticky, potentially leading to issues for acne-prone individuals.
- Reasons for Varied Experiences with Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%:
- Concentration: 10% may be unnecessarily high and irritating for many.
- Niacin Purity: Potential presence of nicotinic acid causing flushing.
- Vehicle Interaction: The specific base formula might not suit all skin types, potentially feeling heavy or contributing to congestion.
- Individual Skin Sensitivity: Some skin simply reacts poorly to high concentrations of actives, regardless of the ingredient.
- Concurrent Products: Using it alongside other potent actives without caution can exacerbate irritation.
So, is Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% a scam? No, it contains niacinamide and zinc, and it works for many.
Is it universally effective and non-irritating? Absolutely not.
Its low price makes it a popular first foray into actives, but the high concentration and simple vehicle mean it’s not as gentle or universally compatible as lower-concentration niacinamide serums or those with more sophisticated, soothing formulations.
It’s a powerful tool that requires users to pay attention to their skin’s response, and its very popularity highlights the challenge of providing potent, low-cost actives directly to consumers without professional guidance.
Gentle Acids? Examining Lactic Acid 10% + HA
When people look for gentler alternatives to Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid often comes up.
Lactic Acid is also an AHA, but its molecule is slightly larger than glycolic acid’s, meaning it penetrates the skin more slowly and is generally considered less irritating.
It also has humectant properties, drawing moisture into the skin.
The Ordinary offers Lactic Acid 10% + HA and a milder 5% version, positioning it as a potent but potentially less aggressive exfoliant than their 7% Glycolic Toner.
Like other acid products, its efficacy is tied to the pH, and The Ordinary lists the pH of Lactic Acid 10% + HA as approximately 3.60-3.80, which is within the effective range for AHA exfoliation.
The addition of Hyaluronic Acid provides surface hydration, theoretically helping to counteract any potential dryness from the exfoliation.
The 10% concentration is on the higher side for a leave-on lactic acid product 5-10% is common, reinforcing The Ordinary’s approach of offering high percentages.
The inclusion of HA is standard practice in AHA formulations to provide hydration and buffer irritation. The vehicle is a simple water-based serum.
They also include a purified Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf extract, similar to the Glycolic Toner, which is purported to help reduce signs of inflammation and sensitivity often associated with acid use.
This suggests a deliberate attempt to mitigate the potential harshness of a 10% acid.
- Lactic Acid 10% + HA – Key Points:
- Actives: 10% Lactic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid Crosspolymer a form of HA.
- Vehicle: Water-based serum with soothing extracts.
- pH: ~3.60-3.80.
- Use Case: Exfoliation gentler than glycolic, improving texture, hydration, mild hyperpigmentation.
- Texture: Clear serum.
- Potential Considerations: Still an acid and can cause irritation, especially if new to acids or overused. requires sun protection. “gentle” is relative. the 5% version might be a better starting point.
Is it truly a “gentle” acid compared to the 7% Glycolic? For many users, yes, 10% Lactic Acid will be less irritating than 7% Glycolic Acid due to the molecular size difference and inherent properties of lactic acid. However, 10% is still a significant concentration, and it can absolutely cause irritation, redness, and sensitivity, particularly if someone’s skin barrier is compromised, they are new to acids, or they use it too frequently. The “gentle” aspect is relative to glycolic acid, not absolute. The fact that The Ordinary also offers a 5% Lactic Acid version Lactic Acid 5% + HA reinforces this point. 10% is not necessarily the recommended starting point for everyone.
User experiences often mirror this.
Many find the Lactic Acid 10% + HA effective for improving skin smoothness and tone with less redness than glycolic.
Others still find it too strong and need to reduce frequency or switch to the 5% version.
The inclusion of HA and the Tasmannia extract helps, but it doesn’t make a 10% acid product universally gentle.
Like their other potent actives, the affordability makes it accessible, but the user needs to exercise caution, start slow maybe 2-3 times a week, and listen to their skin. It’s not a scam.
It’s a 10% lactic acid serum formulated correctly for activity.
The nuance lies in understanding that “gentle” is contextual and that proper usage is key to avoiding negative outcomes. The product delivers the acid. managing its power is on the user.
Peptide Potency: Breaking Down the Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
Peptides are one of the trendier ingredients in skincare, often marketed for their potential anti-aging benefits.
They are short chains of amino acids that can signal skin cells to do various things, like produce more collagen matrix peptides, inhibit muscle contractions neuromodulator peptides, think “botox in a bottle”, or support wound healing.
Peptide serums from traditional brands are often quite expensive.
The Ordinary’s offering, initially called “Buffet” a name changed presumably for clearer communication aligned with their brand strategy, is now the Multi-Peptide + HA Serum. It features a blend of different peptide complexes along with Hyaluronic Acid.
The idea behind a multi-peptide serum is to use several types of peptides targeting different pathways for a comprehensive effect – potentially addressing fine lines, wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration. The specific peptide complexes included often have trade names like Matrixyl™ 3000, Matrixyl™ Synthe’6, SYN™-AKE, ARGIRELOX™ complex, and Relistase™. These names refer to patented blends or specific peptide sequences that have in vitro test tube or ex vivo on tissue samples studies, and sometimes small clinical trials conducted by the raw ingredient manufacturers, showing promising results for specific anti-aging markers.
- Multi-Peptide + HA Serum – What’s Inside:
- Actives: Multiple peptide complexes including those mentioned above, Hyaluronic Acid Crosspolymer, Amino Acids.
- Use Case: Addressing multiple signs of aging fine lines, wrinkles, elasticity, hydration.
- Texture: Clear, slightly viscous serum.
- Potential Considerations: Peptides are large molecules that may struggle to penetrate the skin barrier effectively. clinical evidence for specific peptide blends in final cosmetic products can be limited compared to studies on raw materials. results may be subtle and take a long time to appear. peptide research is ongoing, not as established as retinoids or Vitamin C.
Here’s the challenge with peptides: While the science is promising, getting them to effectively penetrate the skin barrier to reach their target sites is tricky. The size and charge of the peptide, the vehicle, and the overall formulation all play a role. Cosmetic companies use various strategies to enhance peptide delivery, but it’s not a guaranteed slam dunk. Furthermore, the efficacy data often comes from the ingredient suppliers, who have a vested interest in their ingredient looking good. Independent, peer-reviewed studies on finished cosmetic products containing these peptide blends are less common.
The Ordinary includes several peptide complexes at what are generally considered relevant concentrations based on supplier recommendations.
The addition of HA and amino acids provides hydration and foundational skin support, which are always beneficial and can make the skin look plumper, thus temporarily reducing the appearance of fine lines.
The Multi-Peptide + HA Serum is formulated in a simple water base.
It’s an affordable way to access multiple types of peptides in one product.
Is it a scam? It contains the peptides and HA as claimed. Will it give you a facelift in a bottle? Absolutely not. The effects of peptides are generally considered subtle, cumulative, and most likely to be seen on fine lines and overall skin texture and firmness over long periods many months. The hydration from the HA will provide immediate superficial plumping, which is a real effect. Whether the peptides themselves are penetrating effectively and signaling collagen production to a significant, visible degree is harder to ascertain for the average user compared to, say, the exfoliation from an acid or the oil control from niacinamide.
- Why Peptide Results Can Be Underwhelming or Seem Like a “Scam”:
- Penetration Issues: Peptides might not reach target cells in sufficient quantities.
- Subtle Effects: Even when working, results might be less dramatic than retinoids or professional treatments.
- Ingredient Supplier Data: Efficacy studies may be biased or not reflect performance in the final product.
- Expectation Mismatch: Marketing around “anti-aging” peptides can set unrealistic expectations.
- Hydration Effect Dominance: Initial positive results plumping might be primarily due to the HA, not the peptides.
The Multi-Peptide + HA Serum is a low-cost entry into the world of peptides.
For the price, you get a blend of potentially beneficial ingredients in a functional serum.
It’s not a miracle cure, and its effects, particularly the peptide-driven ones, may be minimal or imperceptible for some users, leading to the feeling of having bought an ineffective product.
But this is more a reflection of the current state of peptide research and delivery challenges in topical skincare than evidence of a deliberate “scam” by The Ordinary.
They are providing the ingredients at accessible prices.
Whether those ingredients live up to the broader industry hype, or penetrate effectively in this specific simple formulation, is another question entirely.
The Transparency Play: Education or Just Complex Naming?
The Ordinary burst onto the scene with a promise of transparency, challenging the opaque, often misleading marketing of the traditional beauty industry. Instead of catchy, benefit-driven names “Youth Boost Serum,” “Radiance Elixir”, they named their products based on the key ingredients and their concentrations: Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. This was revolutionary. It forced consumers to think about what was in their products and empowered them to research ingredients. It felt like getting insider info, cutting through the marketing fluff and focusing on the science.
This approach was, in part, a massive educational effort. The Ordinary and parent company Deciem provided detailed descriptions of ingredients, their benefits, conflicts what not to mix, and usage instructions on their website. They created regimen guides and encouraged informed choices. The intention was clearly to arm consumers with knowledge so they could build their own effective routines tailored to their needs, rather than relying on prescriptive, expensive multi-step systems from other brands. This was skincare democratized, putting the power back in the consumer’s hands.
Marketing Actives vs. Explaining Skin Biology
While the naming convention and explicit ingredient focus are hailed as a form of transparency, there’s a fine line between educating consumers about actives and simply marketing using scientific terms that the average person doesn’t fully understand. Listing “Ascorbic Acid Glucoside Solution 12%” sounds very scientific and potent. But what does Ascorbic Acid Glucoside do? How does it compare to L-Ascorbic Acid? Is 12% high or low for this specific derivative? Without significant user effort to research each ingredient and derivative, the name itself, while technically transparent about the composition, doesn’t necessarily explain the function or effectiveness in a way that’s easily digestible.
The marketing leans heavily on the names of actives that have scientific backing. This implies efficacy simply by inclusion at a certain percentage. However, as we’ve discussed, the formulation, stability, and delivery matter just as much, if not more, than the raw percentage. The Ordinary tells you what is in the bottle, but the simple name doesn’t convey the texture of the Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%, the potential tackiness of Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, or the potential irritation of Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution.
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Transparency Pros:
- Forces focus on ingredients, not just brand hype.
- Empowers consumers to research actives.
- Clear indication of primary function based on active.
- Breaks down complex product names into their core components.
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Transparency Cons Potential:
- Names can be meaningless jargon without external research.
- Focus on what’s in it distracts from how it’s formulated and how it feels/works.
- Can give a false sense of expertise to consumers who only know the ingredient name but not its nuances.
- Doesn’t fully address stability or penetration issues inherent in simple formulations.
Is it a scam? No, they aren’t lying about the ingredients on the label. Is the marketing perfect education? Also no. It’s a hybrid: marketing that leverages scientific terms to appeal to an increasingly ingredient-savvy consumer base, coupled with extensive back-end information that users must seek out to truly understand what they are buying and how to use it safely and effectively. The “transparency” is there, but it requires effort from the consumer to fully unlock its value. For a beginner, seeing a name like Lactic Acid 10% + HA might be less helpful than a product named “Gentle Exfoliating Serum” with clear instructions on who it’s for and how to use it.
Managing User Expectations with Potent Ingredients
The flip side of providing access to potent ingredients at low prices is the inherent responsibility or lack thereof for managing user expectations and potential side effects.
The Ordinary’s model essentially says, “Here’s the chemical.
Use it wisely.” This is great for experienced skincare users who understand actives, potential conflicts, and the importance of patch testing and slow introduction. For beginners, however, it can lead to disaster.
Potent ingredients like high-percentage acids Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, Lactic Acid 10% + HA, Vitamin C Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%, and retinoids which The Ordinary also sells can cause significant irritation, redness, dryness, purging initial breakouts, and barrier damage if used incorrectly, too frequently, or in incompatible combinations.
The Ordinary lists conflicts e.g., don’t use direct acids with retinoids and provides basic usage instructions on their site, but this information isn’t always prominently displayed on the product packaging itself.
- Challenges in Managing Expectations:
- Accessibility of Potent Actives: Low price means beginners jump into high concentrations without guidance.
- Complexity of Layering: Combining multiple single-active serums from The Ordinary requires understanding chemistry and ingredient conflicts.
- Lack of Personalization: No built-in mechanism for advising users based on their specific skin type or concerns unlike brands with consultations.
- Underestimating Side Effects: Users might not expect or know how to handle purging, irritation, or sensitivity.
- Patience Required: Actives take time to show results. users might give up too soon or increase usage too quickly.
The sheer volume of online discussion about The Ordinary products – the “how-to” guides, the conflict charts created by fans, the troubleshooting threads for irritation – highlights that the brand relies heavily on community-driven education rather than building comprehensive, easy-to-access guidance into the purchase experience itself. While their website has information, it requires the user to actively seek it out before in.
This can lead to users feeling frustrated or that the product “didn’t work” when they misused it or “damaged their skin” when they overused it. While legally The Ordinary provides sufficient information, ethically and practically, providing high-potency actives requires robust, easily digestible education embedded in the user journey.
The low price point paradoxically increases the risk of misuse because the financial barrier to experimentation is so low.
It’s not a scam, but it places a significant burden of responsibility and education squarely on the consumer’s shoulders.
The Information Overload Conundrum
Deciem, The Ordinary’s parent company, has always embraced a multi-brand, somewhat complex structure.
The Ordinary itself has a large and growing catalog of single-ingredient and focused-ingredient products.
While the intention is to provide choices and target specific concerns, this vast selection, coupled with the ingredient-centric naming and the need for external education, can easily lead to information overload for the consumer.
Imagine a beginner walking into a store or browsing online, looking for help with acne and redness.
They see options like Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA, Mandelic Acid 10% + HA, and multiple retinoid formulations.
Which ones do they choose? How do they combine them? When do they use them? The sheer number of options and the technical naming require significant effort to navigate.
- Information Overload Factors:
- Large Catalog: Many products targeting similar or overlapping concerns.
- Technical Naming: Requires decoding scientific terms.
- Regimen Building Complexity: Combining multiple single-active products correctly is challenging.
- Conflict Avoidance: Knowing which ingredients cancel each other out or cause irritation when combined.
- Layering Order: Understanding the correct sequence of application.
- Deciphering Online Info: Sifting through forum advice, blog posts, and official Deciem information.
While Deciem provides regimen guides on their website and has offered consultations in the past, the primary burden of piecing together a functional, safe routine falls on the consumer.
This contrasts with brands that offer curated routines, simplified product lines, or built-in consultation services though often at a higher price point. The freedom to customize comes with the responsibility of becoming a mini-cosmetic chemist and dermatologist for your own skin.
For those willing and able to put in the research, The Ordinary’s model is empowering and cost-effective. You can target specific issues precisely.
For those who are overwhelmed or just want a simple solution, the system can feel confusing and lead to impulse buys of unsuitable products, incorrect usage, and ultimately, disappointment.
This isn’t a deliberate scam, but it’s an inherent challenge of their business model.
The transparency provides the raw data, but the user has to do the heavy lifting of processing that data into actionable intelligence for their own skin.
The accessibility of the products, like Multi-Peptide + HA Serum or Lactic Acid 10% + HA, is a major plus, but the complexity of using them together effectively can be a significant hurdle.
The Real Results: Hype, Hit, or Miss?
Ultimately, the “Is The Ordinary a scam?” question boils down to one thing for most people: Do the products work? Do they deliver the promised results for my skin? This is where the picture gets complicated, moving beyond ingredients and formulations to the messy reality of individual user experience. Walk into any skincare forum, check reviews on retailer websites, or scroll through social media, and you’ll find wildly divergent opinions. For every person raving about how Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% cleared their acne, there’s another who says it broke them out. For every success story with Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, there’s someone complaining it did nothing or burned their skin.
This variation in results is not unique to The Ordinary. it’s characteristic of all skincare. However, The Ordinary’s model – high-potency actives, simple formulations, emphasis on DIY routine building, low price point encouraging experimentation – amplifies these variations and makes them more visible. When a product costs $50+, people are perhaps more likely to stick with it, assume they are the problem if it doesn’t work, or attribute any subtle positive change to the expensive purchase. When a product costs $6, it’s easier to dismiss it as ineffective, toss it, and declare the brand a “scam” if it doesn’t deliver dramatic results instantly.
Why User Experiences Vary Wildly
The sheer variability in how people react to The Ordinary’s products isn’t mysterious when you consider the multitude of factors at play. It’s a complex system with many moving parts:
- Individual Skin Biology: Everyone’s skin is unique. Genetic predisposition, skin type oily, dry, combination, underlying conditions rosacea, eczema, and sensitivity levels vary dramatically. What works for oily, resilient skin might be disastrous for dry, sensitive skin. The same Salicylic Acid 2% Solution will behave differently on different people.
- Specific Concerns: What issue are you trying to address? Acne, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dryness? Different actives target different concerns. Using Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 for acne won’t yield results though hydration helps overall skin health, just as Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution might do little for deep wrinkles.
- Environment and Lifestyle: Climate humidity levels affect HA performance, diet, stress, sleep, smoking, and sun exposure all impact skin health and how products perform.
- Other Products in Routine: What else are you using? Interactions between products are crucial, especially with The Ordinary’s single-active approach. Combining conflicting actives e.g., certain Vitamin C types with high-strength Niacinamide, or multiple acids can lead to irritation or render products ineffective. Using Multi-Peptide + HA Serum alongside an aggressive routine might mean you don’t see peptide benefits because your skin is constantly inflamed.
- Adherence and Consistency: Skincare requires patience and consistent application. Using a product like Lactic Acid 10% + HA sporadically won’t yield the same results as consistent, appropriate use.
- Application Technique: How you apply products, how much you use, whether you apply them to damp or dry skin important for HA, and layering order all matter.
- Expectations vs. Reality: Unrealistic expectations about the speed or degree of results are common, especially given the hype around certain ingredients. Skincare takes time, often weeks or months, to show noticeable changes.
The sheer volume of these variables means that user experience with any product is inherently non-uniform. With The Ordinary, where users are often self-selecting products and building their own complex routines with potent actives, the probability of hitting a “miss” due to one of these factors especially product selection, combination, or overuse increases significantly compared to using a simplified, professionally recommended routine. This leads to a higher frequency of negative reviews or experiences, feeding the “scam” narrative for some, even if the product itself is functional.
- Common Reasons for “Miss” Experiences:
- Using too many actives at once.
- Using actives that conflict.
- Over-exfoliation or barrier damage from overuse of acids Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution.
- Choosing a product unsuitable for skin type e.g., high-concentration Vitamin C suspension on very sensitive skin.
- Lack of consistency.
- Unrealistic timelines for results especially for issues like hyperpigmentation or wrinkles.
- Reacting to the base formulation or a specific non-active ingredient.
This isn’t the mark of a scam.
It’s the predictable outcome of providing powerful tools to users with varying levels of knowledge and vastly different biological responses.
The Importance of Routine and Application Technique
This point deserves its own spotlight because it’s so critical for The Ordinary’s model. Because they offer individual ingredients, building a routine is paramount. It’s not just about whether Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is effective in isolation it is, for hydration. It’s about where it fits in your sequence of products. Do you apply it before or after a thicker serum? Do you apply it on damp skin to maximize its water-drawing potential? Yes, you should.
Layering order matters: generally thinnest to thickest texture. Water-based serums before oils or creams.
PH-dependent products like acids, Lactic Acid 10% + HA, Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, some Vitamin C should ideally be applied first after cleansing to ensure their pH isn’t neutralized by subsequent products, unless the texture dictates otherwise the gritty Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% is an exception and often recommended last.
- Routine & Technique Checklist for The Ordinary:
- Cleanse: Always start with clean skin.
- pH-Dependent Actives: Apply acids or low-pH Vitamin C first unless vehicle suggests otherwise. Wait a few minutes if possible.
- Water-Based Serums: Apply hydrating serums like Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 or Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% on slightly damp skin.
- Oil-Based Serums/Suspensions: Apply after water-based products e.g., Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%.
- Moisturizer: Seal everything in, especially crucial after humectants like HA or potentially drying actives.
- SPF AM: Non-negotiable, especially when using acids or retinoids.
- Frequency: Start slow 2-3 times a week for potent actives and gradually increase as tolerated.
- Patch Testing: Always test a new product on a small area first.
The complexity of combining multiple products from The Ordinary is perhaps the biggest hurdle for new users. You can’t just buy five bottles that sound good and slap them all on daily. You need a strategy. You need to know what conflicts with what e.g., direct Vitamin C with Niacinamide is generally okay in different routines, but combining them in the same application can be irritating. direct acids with retinoids is a definite no-go for most. The brand provides conflict charts, but navigating them requires effort.
Users who experience great results with The Ordinary have often put in the work to understand ingredients, build a careful routine, introduce products slowly, and pay attention to their skin’s response.
Users who call it a “miss” or a “scam” are often those who have inadvertently sabotaged their results through improper use or combination.
The products are potent, and with potency comes the need for responsible application.
The affordability makes experimentation accessible, but it also makes it easier to make mistakes if not approached mindfully.
Deciding if The Ordinary Delivers For You
So, stepping back from the “scam” question, which is largely unfounded in the sense of deliberate fraud, the real question is: Does The Ordinary deliver for you? Given the variability in results, the reliance on user education, and the potential pitfalls of misapplication, The Ordinary is not a guaranteed win for everyone. It’s a brand that offers potent ingredients at an unmatched price point, but it requires the user to be an active, informed participant in their skincare journey.
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Who The Ordinary is Likely a “Hit” For:
- Experienced skincare users who understand ingredients and routine building.
- Individuals with specific concerns targeting common actives acne, texture, basic hydration.
- Budget-conscious consumers willing to invest time in researching ingredients and building a tailored routine.
- People whose skin is relatively resilient and less prone to sensitivity.
- Those who appreciate minimalist formulations and aren’t bothered by less “elegant” textures.
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Who The Ordinary Might Be a “Miss” For:
- Skincare beginners looking for simple, all-in-one solutions.
- Individuals with highly sensitive, reactive, or complex skin conditions rosacea, severe eczema without professional guidance.
- Those unwilling or unable to research ingredients and product conflicts.
- Consumers who prefer luxurious textures and elegant formulations.
- People with unrealistic expectations for speed or degree of results from topical skincare alone.
To make The Ordinary work for you, start with a clear understanding of your primary skin concerns. Research the specific active ingredients recommended for those concerns. Visit The Ordinary’s website, read their product descriptions, and crucially, look at their regimen guides and conflict charts. Start with one or two products targeting your main issue. Patch test everything. Introduce new actives slowly, one at a time, using them infrequently at first e.g., 2-3 times a week before increasing frequency as tolerated. Pay close attention to how your skin responds. Irritation persistent redness, burning, peeling beyond initial adjustment is a sign to back off or stop.
If you find a product like Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% causes flushing but you still want niacinamide benefits, maybe seek out a 5% concentration from another brand or mix a drop of The Ordinary’s into a basic moisturizer to dilute it though this affects formulation integrity. If Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% is too gritty, consider one of their Vitamin C derivatives or a different brand’s Vitamin C serum.
The low price point allows for this trial and error, but it requires patience and willingness to experiment.
- Actionable Steps for Using The Ordinary Successfully:
- Identify Core Concerns: What specifically do you want to address?
- Research Actives: Learn about the ingredients The Ordinary offers that target those concerns Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 for hydration, Salicylic Acid 2% Solution for acne, Multi-Peptide + HA Serum for general anti-aging, etc..
- Check Conflicts: Use The Ordinary’s website or reliable third-party resources to ensure products you choose can be used together, either in the same routine or alternating days/times.
- Start Simple: Don’t buy ten products at once. Begin with 1-3 core products.
- Patch Test: Always.
- Introduce Slowly: Apply potent actives infrequently at first.
- Listen to Your Skin: Redness, burning, excessive dryness, or new breakouts beyond initial purging with acids/retinoids mean slow down or stop.
- Be Patient: Give products adequate time weeks to months to show results.
- Ensure Foundational Routine: Always use cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF, regardless of actives. Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 fits well into almost any routine for hydration support.
In conclusion, The Ordinary is not a scam.
They deliver exactly what they promise on the label: specific active ingredients at stated concentrations for incredibly low prices.
The controversy and mixed user experiences stem from the inherent challenges of formulating potent actives affordably leading to texture or potential stability compromises, and more significantly, from the brand’s model that requires a high degree of user education and careful self-management to achieve positive results and avoid negative ones. It’s a DIY skincare brand.
If you’re willing to do the ‘install,’ you can reap significant rewards for minimal investment.
If you’re looking for a plug-and-play solution, you might find it frustrating.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is The Ordinary promising?
The Ordinary is promising high concentrations of effective, clinically-proven skincare ingredients at prices that are shockingly low compared to traditional brands.
Think potent serums, acids, and oils without the fancy packaging, celebrity endorsements, or inflated marketing budgets.
They’re basically cutting out the frills and focusing on the active ingredients themselves.
How are The Ordinary’s prices so low? What’s the catch?
There’s no real “catch,” but they keep prices down by stripping everything back to basics. They use simple, no-frills packaging think lab-style bottles, avoid expensive advertising campaigns, and focus on single-ingredient or minimal-ingredient formulations. They’re betting that you care more about what’s in the bottle than what the bottle looks like. This allows them to offer potent ingredients like Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% or Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 at a fraction of the cost of competitors.
What does “high concentration actives” really mean?
It means they’re putting a significant amount of the active ingredient like Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, or glycolic acid into the product. This is important because for an ingredient to actually do something for your skin, it needs to be present at a concentration that’s been shown to be effective in scientific studies. The Ordinary is all about delivering those concentrations, which is why you’ll see things like Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%.
Is the quality of ingredients lower because the prices are low?
This is a valid concern. While The Ordinary is regulated and their products are generally safe, they don’t always explicitly disclose their sourcing or purity standards for every raw material. So, it’s hard for the consumer to know if they are getting the most effective version of the active. While regulations require cosmetic ingredients to meet certain safety standards, there can still be variations in quality that affect performance and user experience, especially irritation levels.
What’s the deal with “transparent naming”?
Instead of calling a product “Youthful Radiance Elixir,” they tell you exactly what’s in it: Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, for example. This forces you to pay attention to the ingredients themselves and understand what they do, rather than being swayed by marketing buzzwords.
How simple are The Ordinary’s formulations, really?
The Ordinary’s philosophy hinges on simplicity: deliver the active in a basic, functional base. This is where the cost savings often come in.
Complex cosmetic formulations involve not just the active, but a carefully chosen symphony of penetration enhancers, stabilizers, texture modifiers, humectants, emollients, and sometimes even ingredients to counteract potential irritation from the active.
By stripping down formulations, The Ordinary cuts these costs.
Are The Ordinary’s products truly effective, or are they too good to be true?
They can be effective, but it depends on your skin type, what you’re trying to achieve, and how you use the products. The Ordinary’s model relies heavily on user education, which means you need to do your homework to understand which ingredients are right for you and how to combine them safely.
How do I know which The Ordinary products are right for my skin?
Start by identifying your primary skin concerns acne, dryness, wrinkles, etc.. Then, research which active ingredients are known to address those concerns.
The Ordinary’s website is a great resource for learning about ingredients and their potential benefits.
Also, look for ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 that are beneficial for most skin types.
What’s the best way to build a skincare routine with The Ordinary products?
Start simple.
Choose one or two products that target your main concerns.
Introduce them slowly, one at a time, and pay attention to how your skin reacts.
Don’t try to use every product in their line all at once.
It is important to look at their regimen guides and conflict charts before buying products
Can I really mix and match different The Ordinary products?
Yes, but with caution.
The Ordinary encourages you to customize your routine, but it’s crucial to understand which ingredients can be combined safely and which ones should be avoided.
For example, you generally shouldn’t use direct acids like Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution with retinoids in the same routine.
What does “pH” have to do with skincare?
pH is a measure of acidity or alkalinity.
Your skin has a natural pH of around 5.5, which is slightly acidic.
Many active ingredients, like acids AHAs/BHAs and Vitamin C, need to be formulated at a specific pH to be effective.
The Ordinary generally formulates its products within the correct pH ranges, which is important for their efficacy.
What’s the deal with the “gritty” texture of some The Ordinary products?
Some of The Ordinary’s formulations, like Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%, have a gritty texture because they use a high concentration of powdered active ingredients in a simple base.
While this doesn’t necessarily affect the product’s efficacy, some people find it unpleasant to use.
I’ve heard The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% can cause breakouts. Is that true?
It can, for some people. While niacinamide is generally beneficial for acne-prone skin, the 10% concentration in The Ordinary’s serum might be too high for some individuals. Additionally, some people may react to other ingredients in the formula. If you experience breakouts, try a lower concentration of niacinamide or discontinue use.
What’s the best way to store The Ordinary products?
To maximize the stability and effectiveness of The Ordinary products, store them in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight and heat.
Some ingredients, like Vitamin C, are particularly susceptible to degradation from light and air exposure.
Are The Ordinary products cruelty-free and vegan?
Yes, The Ordinary is cruelty-free and most of their products are vegan. They are certified by PETA and Leaping Bunny.
What’s the difference between Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid?
Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution AHA works primarily on the skin’s surface to exfoliate dead skin cells and improve texture.
Salicylic Acid 2% Solution BHA is oil-soluble and can penetrate into pores to exfoliate from within, making it particularly effective for acne and blackheads.
How often should I use exfoliating acids like Glycolic or Lactic Acid?
Start slowly, using them 1-2 times per week.
You can gradually increase frequency as your skin tolerates it, but be careful not to over-exfoliate, which can damage your skin barrier.
Always use sunscreen during the day when using acids.
Lactic Acid 10% + HA is generally considered gentler than glycolic acid.
Can I use The Ordinary products if I have sensitive skin?
It depends on the product.
Some of The Ordinary’s products, like Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, are generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin.
However, potent actives like acids and high-concentration Vitamin C can be irritating.
Start with lower concentrations and introduce products slowly. Always patch test first.
What’s the deal with peptides in skincare? Do they really work?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that can signal skin cells to do various things, like produce more collagen.
The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + HA Serum contains a blend of different peptide complexes.
While the science is promising, getting them to effectively penetrate the skin barrier to reach their target sites is tricky.
The effects are generally considered subtle and cumulative.
What’s the purpose of Hyaluronic Acid in skincare?
Hyaluronic Acid HA is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture from the environment into the skin, helping it feel hydrated and plump.
The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is a popular and affordable option for basic hydration.
I’ve heard The Ordinary products can “purge” your skin. What does that mean?
“Purging” refers to an initial breakout that can occur when you start using certain active ingredients, like acids or retinoids.
These ingredients increase skin cell turnover, which can bring underlying congestion to the surface.
Purging is usually temporary and should subside within a few weeks.
Do The Ordinary products have expiration dates?
Yes, The Ordinary products have expiration dates printed on the packaging.
It’s important to use products within their expiration date to ensure their efficacy and safety.
Can I use The Ordinary products during pregnancy or breastfeeding?
It’s always best to consult with your doctor before using any new skincare products during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Some ingredients, like retinoids and high concentrations of salicylic acid, are generally not recommended.
How can I tell if a The Ordinary product has gone bad?
Changes in color, texture, or smell can indicate that a product has gone bad.
For example, Vitamin C serums can oxidize and turn yellow or orange.
Discontinue use if you notice any of these changes.
What if I’m not seeing results with The Ordinary products?
First, make sure you’re using the products correctly and consistently.
Give them adequate time to work at least a few weeks. If you’re still not seeing results, consider adjusting your routine, trying different products, or consulting with a dermatologist.
The Multi-Peptide + HA Serum may take longer to show results than other products.
Are there any ingredients I should absolutely avoid using with The Ordinary products?
Avoid combining direct acids like Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution with retinoids in the same routine.
Also, be cautious about using high concentrations of Vitamin C with Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% in the same application, as this can sometimes cause irritation.
How do I patch test The Ordinary products?
Apply a small amount of the product to a discreet area of your skin like your inner arm or behind your ear and wait 24-48 hours.
If you experience any irritation, redness, or itching, discontinue use.
Is The Ordinary a sustainable brand?
The Ordinary is working to improve its sustainability practices, but they are not yet a fully sustainable brand.
They are committed to reducing their environmental impact and using more sustainable packaging.
Where can I buy The Ordinary products?
The Ordinary products are available online and in select retailers, including Sephora and Ulta.
You can also purchase them directly from The Ordinary’s website.
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